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The Periyar river under a violet sky before sunrise The white Jungle Bird house with its green terrace railings among the trees The carved wooden Kerala-style cottage in the garden The view from the terrace over the forest canopy to the hills

സ്വാഗതംWelcome to Thattekkad

The forest wakes at half past five.

Jungle Bird is a family homestay at the edge of the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, founded by Sudhamma, Thattekkad’s first licensed woman forest guide. Scroll through one day here, from the mist on the Periyar to the owls after dinner.

Thattekkad runs on India Standard Time.

05:45 · Periyar riverbank

A short walk to the edge of the water.

The air is cool and the mist lies on the Periyar like a sheet. At the sanctuary gate there is only the dip of a fisherman’s oars somewhere out on the river.

This is the blue hour, the few minutes between night and day, and it is why birders set their alarms.

The Periyar in the blue hour, violet sky reflected in still water

Periyar Riverblue hour

06:10 · First call

The drongo speaks first, in everyone else’s voice.

The Greater Racket-tailed Drongo usually opens the morning, borrowing other birds’ calls. Within minutes the koels and the Malabar Whistling Thrush have joined in, and the canopy is full.

Calls are synthesised impressions. Sudhamma does them better.

A glossy blue-black drongo perched on a branch

Photographed at ThattekkadDrongo

06:50 · Shafts of gold

Light breaks through the teak, and so do the hornbills.

Sunlight comes through the teak and mahogany in shafts. In those pockets of light you look for a Malabar Grey Hornbill gliding across, or a Malabar Trogon sitting very still in the mid-storey.

A pair of Malabar Grey Hornbills on a branch
A male and female Malabar Trogon perched together

07:30 · Who’s walking with you

She knows every call on the trail.

Sudha Chandran, Sudhamma to everyone here, used to run a small tea stall near the sanctuary. She learned her birds under Dr R. Sugathan, a student of Dr Sálim Ali, became Thattekkad’s first licensed woman forest guide, and opened Jungle Bird for birdwatchers.

Today she knows the breeding seasons, migrations and calls of almost every bird in Thattekkad, and still spends long days on the trails with guests.

“This is my temple; my duty is my prayer.”Sudha Chandran · Sanctuary Nature Foundation
  • Firstlicensed woman forest guide at Thattekkad
  • 2023Wildlife Service Award, Sanctuary Nature Foundation
  • Dr R. Sugathanher teacher, a student of Dr Sálim Ali
  • 8–12 hoursa day on the trails with visitors

08:00 · Back at the homestay

Puttu, kadala curry, and a list of sightings.

By eight the humidity is rising and everyone walks back hungry. Breakfast is home-cooked Kerala food, eaten in the garden while the morning’s list is compared.

Guests and hosts sharing tender coconuts around a table in the garden

The garden tableafter the walk

This morning’s photographs.

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Malabar Grey Hornbills
Malabar Grey Hornbillcanopy
The long white tail of a paradise-flycatcher
Asian Paradise-flycatcherforest trail
Malabar Trogon showing its crimson belly
Malabar Trogonmid-storey
Black Baza perched on a branch
Black Bazatreetop
A pair of Sri Lanka Frogmouths roosting
Sri Lanka Frogmouthday roost
Jungle Owlet with yellow eyes
Jungle Owletedge of the forest
Two White-bellied Treepies on a branch
White-bellied Treepiegarden

11:00 · The forest rests, so can you

Three rooms, three ways to be in the trees.

Every room has an en-suite bathroom with hot water, air-conditioning, ceiling fans and Wi-Fi, if you want it.

16:30 · The garden

The afternoon comes to the verandah.

You don’t need to go far after lunch. Barbets call from the dead trunks, treepies work the fruiting trees and, if you’re patient, an Indian Pitta turns up on the damp ground.

A barbet with a crimson face at a nest hole
An Indian Pitta standing on moss

18:30 · Dusk

The day birds go quiet. The nightjars start.

As the light goes, the Jungle Owlet runs through its call and the nightjars begin hunting over the clearings. Three kinds of nightjar are on the Thattekkad list.

A camouflaged nightjar resting on a mossy branch

Hidden in plain sightNightjar

20:30 · Owl light

Nine owls on the list. And the frogmouth.

Thattekkad is one of the best places in India for night birds. The Sri Lanka Frogmouth is the one many guests come for, and it is almost impossible to find without someone who knows the roosts.

Round 1 of 2

Find the owl’s eyes

Sweep the torch over the photograph and tap the bird when you find it.

A dark forest photograph with a hidden bird
not there… keep looking

Move your pointer or finger to aim the torchfind the bird

21:00 · Stories on the verandah

What guests say

The proximity to the sanctuary is unbeatable. We spotted so many rare birds just from our balcony. The guide was knowledgeable and the entire experience was a dream for nature lovers.
Robert & EmilyManchester, UK
We were welcomed with such warmth and genuine kindness. The authentic home-cooked meals were the absolute highlight of our Kerala trip.
Sneha GuptaNew Delhi
A truly serene escape tucked away in the forest. Waking up to the sounds of nature was incredibly refreshing.
Arjun PillaiTrivandrum
The perfect mix of adventure and relaxation. The location is stunning and the service is impeccable.
Markus WeberMunich, Germany
Every detail here is designed for tranquility and comfort. It deeply reconnected us with the beauty of nature.
Lakshmi R.Hyderabad

05:30 · Tomorrow

Set your alarm for the blue hour.

Call or WhatsApp
+91 98470 34520
Write
junglebirdhomestay@yahoo.com
Find us
Thattekkad, Ernakulam district, Kerala 686681